Review: Mezzo Bar + Grill Melbourne

Thursday 4 February 2010, 9.03 AM
By The Team | Posted in Places

In late 2009, Luke Stringer and Joseph Vargetto transformed the space formerly-known-as-Melbourne’s-Oyster-Little-Bourke into Mezzo Bar + Grill – a new look space with a new dining philosophy and a very different food and wine focus. Read the review below and watch a video of the transformation.

[flashvideo file="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfbSJkOmTAY" /]

Notice something missing from the top end of Little Bourke St? Shucks, fans of the bivalve may be disappointed that Oyster Little Bourke is no longer. But you’re still in good hands with Luke Stringer and chef Joseph Vargetto at the helm of a more casual approach to fine dining.

Mezzo Bar + Grill is now a slick but casual eatery reflecting Vargetto’s Sicilian heritage. Its hearty, provincial fare from the south and range of Australian and Italian wines follow the European tradition: choose a brew in half bottle, 500ml or 1000ml carafe. Nice!

We decide to stick to struzzinchini (appetisers), which are ideal for sharing and offer more vegetarian choices.

Recommended are the just-seared juicy nuggets of scallop served with contemporary flair on a smear of cauliflower puree and sweet muscatel raisins. Next is schiaciatinne or rectangular potato and onion filled-pastry, each crispy bite hits a different shade of oozing smoked mozzarella or distinctive roasted fennel seeds. The zucchini flowers are beautifully done here: plump with ricotta, enclosed in a light, airy batter and decorated with a delicate salsa of pine nuts and slow-roasted cherry tomatoes.

The ‘full’ sign is flashing but there’s an empty corner of my stomach still available for traditional Sicilian cannoli. These handmade tubes of heaven, dusted with icing sugar and pistachio crumbs come filled with chocolate-flecked ricotta and chunks of glace cherries.

And if you’re still hankering for the past, you’ll be pleased to know that the famous oysters are still on offer but I fancy I’ll be back to sample Mezzo’s more meat-heavy tesori della cucina (kitchen treasures) next time.

VITAL STATS
Take: A group of friends, your beloved or your parents – or all of the above.
Entrees: $5-$14
Mains: $24- $43
Desserts: $4.50 – $11.50
Wine: Wide range of Australian and European wines, cocktails and home-grown and international beers.
Specials: Two arancini with a glass of wine $14. Half priced dozen oysters between 5.30-6pm

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