Review: Izakaya Den

Thursday 18 February 2010, 9.43 AM
By The Team | Posted in Places

A discrete sign outside, two levels underground, Izakaya Den joins a select group of Japanese establishments that prefer to keep their charms well hidden.

This hasn’t stopped the hip designer crowd from finding this stylish, post-industrial space with its slick service and cool beats. Descending the stair reveals a striking long wooden counter, an assortment of tables suited for cosy gatherings, and one large granite table at the back for bigger groups. Recommended is the ringside seating at the long wooden bar: watch the chefs perform in the busy open kitchen and soak up the noisy and vibrant buzz.

Izakayas are Japanese-style pubs where drinking, eating and conviviality have equal importance. Food is made to enhance your drinking experience and not outshine it, and in this respect Izakaya Den remains faithful to this tradition.

After you have chosen your drink from the extensive menu, start with crispy fritters of sweet corn lightly bound in tempura, its sweetness tempered by a green tea dipping salt. The potato croquettes are somewhat disappointing and seem more bouncy in texture than fluffy on the inside. However the tuna tataki is inspiring – raw tiles of lightly seared sashimi-grade tuna, delicately flavoured with garlic soy, and decorated with tiny chive shoots. It’s a joy to the eye as well as the tastebuds. An unusual salad of rocket and pine nuts with shards of crispy fried salmon skin and shavings of bonito flakes is another unexpected highlight. 

Desserts vary from modern interpretations of French classics such as millefeuille layered with air-dried apple slices and sorbet to more Japanese-style sweets such as a black sesame ice cream.

Even though it’s early days, Izakaya Den delivers a menu designed for sharing and conversation, and has all the right ingredients to deliver an authentic izakaya experience. Well worth the search.

Izakaya Den: 114 Russell Street, Melbourne

Phone: 9654 2977

Open: Tue–Fri noon-2pm, Tue-Sun 6pm-12am

Seats 80

Typical prices: E $6 M $18 D$10

Wine:  Impressive range of alcohol with a strong Japanese focus including sake, Umeshu (plum wine) and beer. Also features a boutique selection of Victorian wine and select list of fine spirits from around the globe.

Owner: Simon Denton

Chef: Menu designed by Ken Taro. Head chef Yosuke Furukawa

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